SUBJECT: 4/5
WRITING: 4.5/5
OVERALL: 4.5/5
Theme: Nature, Himalayas, Travel, Nonfiction writing

“IT’S HARD TO REALISE THAT I’VE BEEN HERE ALL THESE years—forty summers and monsoons and winters and Himalayan springs—because, when I look back to the time of my first coming here, it really does seem like yesterday. That probably sums it all up. Time passes, and yet it doesn’t pass (it is only you and I who are passing). People come and go, the mountains remain.”

Ruskin Bond, All Roads Lead to Ganga

Ruskin Bond’s “All Roads Lead to Ganga” is not merely a tribute to the revered mother figure known as Ganga by all Bharatvaasis, but also a heartfelt celebration of the majestic Himalayas, her sacred abode.

From the serene waters of Mandakini to the towering peaks of Tungnath, from the mighty currents of Alaknanda to the pristine flow of Bhagirathi, the book reverently acknowledges the diverse landscapes of Garhwal, Dehra, and Mussoorie. In essence, it is a humble homage to the cherished land that has been the nurturing ground for the author throughout his life.

As I scrolled through my Kindle, craving a moment of tranquillity in the midst of a hectic day, I stumbled upon another gem by Ruskin Bond. “All Roads Lead to Ganga” caught my eye with its promise of a short yet enriching journey.

With just 121 pages and a succinct summary, it seemed tailor-made for someone like me – a nature enthusiast, particularly drawn to the mountains, and an avid admirer of Mr. Bond’s literary craftsmanship. It felt like fate had intervened, guiding me toward a reading experience perfectly attuned to my interests and passions.

As I delved into this collection, I found myself immersed in a tapestry of experiences that ranged from vivid travelogues to poignant reflections on days gone by. Some essays whisked me back to the author’s youth, evoking a nostalgic yearning for simpler times, while others served as informative windows into the landscapes, people, and cultures that form the backdrop of his narratives.

In “The Writer on the Hill,” Bond eloquently pays homage to the hills that have become his sanctuary. He shares the story of how he stumbled upon these majestic heights, finding not just a place to dwell, but a sense of belonging and familial warmth. Amidst his musings, he reflects on the curious absence of celebrated literary voices extolling the mountains, contrasting it with the sea’s rich tapestry woven by writers like Conrad and Melville, with the exception of the Taoist poets from ancient China.

Through Bond’s lens in “Rani of the Doon,” I witnessed the remarkable evolution of Dehradun, from a quaint town of yesteryears to a bustling metropolis. He unveils the tale of Rani Karnavati, a figure of historical significance who wielded power on behalf of the Garhwal rajahs. Her legacy as a formidable administrator serves as a testament to the city’s enduring spirit amidst change and progress.

In “A Village in Garhwal,” the author invites us into his intimate journey to a remote hamlet named Manjari, perched above the Nayar River amidst the rugged valleys of the Garhwal Himalayas. It’s a tale woven with the threads of human resilience against the backdrop of an unforgiving landscape, where life is a constant battle against nature’s whims. Here, amidst the breathtaking beauty, every encounter with a roof-pounding bear or a fleeting glimpse of a red-billed blue magpie becomes a part of everyday life.

Tales of Old Mussoorie” paints a vivid picture of this beloved hill station, a place many of us have wandered through at some point. Through Bond’s eyes, we delve into the intriguing legends surrounding Gun Hill and uncover the origins of the town’s name, rooted in the ubiquitous ‘Mansuri’ shrub that blankets the range.

And then, “Landour Bazaar” beckons us down the timeless paths of a 150-year-old marketplace, guiding us through the dusty lanes of Tehri Road to the enchanting wonder that is Pari Tibba. Named for the ethereal greenish glow it emits, this picturesque hill stands as a testament to the enduring charm of Landour’s storied streets.

Along the Mandakini” gently transports us to the verdant embrace of Mandakini Valley, a stark contrast to the rugged depths of the Alaknanda Valley, weaving tales of Guptakashi and Ukhimath into its lush tapestry.

In “Magic of Tungnath,” we embark on a pilgrimage to one of the loftiest sanctuaries in the Himalayas, the awe-inspiring Tungnath temple, nestled at a staggering 12,000 feet beneath the majestic Chandrashila peak. As we trek alongside the author, from Chopta to Tungnath, we’re enveloped by the rich flora and fauna, and introduced to the devoted priest who tends to the sacred shrine.

A personal favourite, “Ganga Descends,” invites contemplation on the age-old query: which river, the Alaknanda or the Bhagirathi, is the true Ganga of the upper reaches? Filled with both curiosity and reverence, this piece resonates deeply. I’m particularly struck by the wisdom shared by the author’s friend: “The Alaknanda is Ganga, but the Bhagirathi is Ganga ji.”

Moreover, there are enchanting narratives dedicated to the grandeur of Garhwal’s ancient trees, the melodious symphonies of birds echoing through the valleys, the ethereal dance of white clouds against emerald peaks, and much more.

Through “All Roads Lead to Ganga,” Ruskin Bond gently reminds us not merely to coexist with nature, but to cherish, venerate, and find solace in its every facet. In a world that races forward, this book urges us to pause, disconnect from our devices, and embrace the abundance of beauty surrounding us. It’s a humble yet powerful reminder to bow before the majesty of nature.

Once again, I find myself grateful for stumbling upon another enchanting Ruskin Bond masterpiece, a treasure I’m delighted to have unearthed.

Can’t wait to read it? Buy your copy of “All Roads Lead to Ganga” using the link below.